A circuitous route to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Stage One beginning in Munich, Germany ending in Jerusalem - traveling through Austria, Italy, Albania, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Cyprus and Israel. Second stage from Vienna, through Germany, Czech Republic, Holland, Belgium, France and Spain.
Final destination - Santiago!

Post Script: The changeable situation in Jerusalem has led to a change in plans. The Rome to Jerusalem leg of this journey has been changed to the 'End to End' in the UK, after which the journey will resume as above in Vienna.

Saturday 17 January 2015

......... and into Cornwall, Cousin Jack territory.

After little Lydford my next goal was larger Launceston.  I was very fortunate in that Sandra, a resident at the hotel, took my pack to where she was attending a training course, some 10 miles down the road.  This was one of those days when I had to put full rain gear on, and so to have the freedom of walking without a pack for three quarters of the day was a treat.  Arriving at the farm feed mill to pick up my pack, I stopped work in the office for a time while I was bombarded with questions about what I was doing.

After leaving these folk and crossing the border into Cornwall I came across a farm shop which, like garden centres, equals food, coffee, and toilets!  I said some time ago that it almost felt like spring was around the corner, and here, inthe flower beds at the front, there were daffodils actually in flower.

Launceston is one of those places whose name, when spoken, bears no resemblance to the spelling.  True locals call it Lansen, (more or less), and those that tell me this (what I would call local but they presumably don't) call it Lornston.  A lovely town, though I saw it in its worst light in wind, rain and sleet.
Church of  St Mary Magdalene, Launceston.
I managed to get a sing here before setting out.  
Launceston castle
Looking from the castle walls to the lush green fields beyond.
One of the gates (above and below) to the castle.

From Launceston I headed towards the North West Coast of Cornwall to the town of Camelford, with my ultimate goal being Padstow.  The weather was at its worst thus far and when I woke the next day the ground was white with hail and some snow.  Fortunately though, the day continued mostly fine but with a strong wind, gale force in some parts of the country.

I followed the second disused rail line in a week.  This one is called the Camel Trail and goes from Wenford Bridge, via Bodmin and Wadebridge to Padstow, a coastal village.  It was a good choice as it was mainly sheltered from the wind and was flat and so I could move briskly.  I also had the advantage of another day without a pack as my hosts in Camelford took my pack onto my hotel in Wadebridge.  I had read about the Camel Trail some time ago and thought it must have got its name somehow from association with the animals, but not so.  Its name is from the River Camel along which the old rail line followed.  It was built to transport sea sand to Bodmin Moor to act as fertiliser.
Looking towards Rough Tor, Camelford.
Leaving Camelford.
A war memorial on the outskirts of Camelford.  The inscription at the base reads:-
May the flower of Flanders field
seed the hearts of Cornish young
May the valiant never yield
to call for peace in every tongue
On the way to the Camel Trail I came upon these daffodils in bloom.
Remnants of buildings at the start of the Camel Trail.  The last train ran in 1984.

Padstow is a fishing village on the estuary of the River Camel.  It is also the home of the cook Rick Stein who has restaurants and even a hotel apparently.  I was told how he employs several hundred people in his various enterprises and so I suspect he's "Mr Padstow".

I have stayed here two nights, catching a bus and walking back along the spectacular coast - another pack free day.  I have been told how fabulous this coastline is, and indeed these comments are very accurate.  It is wild and ferocious, especially at this time of the year as squalls blow in from the sea, and the waves roll into, and batter, the rocky coastline.

The coastal path, the longest long distance path in Britain, follows the cliff line, winding in and out, and at times down and across beaches.  There are places where barriers have been put because there are sheer drops, the path having fallen into the sea, along with that bit of coastline!

Padstow is a delightful village with narrow, winding streets and interesting shops including a number of bakeries all selling their own "original" Cornish pasty!  A couple of friends from Exeter met me for the afternoon and we treated ourselves to the most delicious (and largest) cakes in tea rooms owned by a lass from Christchurch in NZ.
The Camel, and the Trail, (above and below) between Wadebridge and Padstow.

Padstow, from the Camel Trail.
Padstow harbour.  I stayed in the Customs House Hotel, the brown building in the centre. 
Padstow Habour
This is for the South Aussies - Cornish pasties, in three different sizes!
The beach at Mawgan Porth.

The following photos are just some of the sights from the cliff tops along the coastal path between Constantine Bay and Mawgan Porth.  I will let them tell the tale.




Periodically along the coastal path there are interesting fences, this one topped with grass clumps.
Here's one patch where the path has disappeared - downwards.









2 comments:

  1. Coastal trail looks stunning- and I don't imagine it has many winter walkers! I loved the poem with that very special war memorial.

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  2. Hi Janet, Third time lucky. You are now in the land of my forefathers. My Great Grandfather (19) and his bride (18) traveled to Liverpool a fortnight after the wedding to migrate to South Australia. He was a miner working near the Bodmin Moor and worked on the Burra Mine. Photos stunning.

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