A circuitous route to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Stage One beginning in Munich, Germany ending in Jerusalem - traveling through Austria, Italy, Albania, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Cyprus and Israel. Second stage from Vienna, through Germany, Czech Republic, Holland, Belgium, France and Spain.
Final destination - Santiago!

Post Script: The changeable situation in Jerusalem has led to a change in plans. The Rome to Jerusalem leg of this journey has been changed to the 'End to End' in the UK, after which the journey will resume as above in Vienna.

Thursday 15 January 2015

Farewell Devon ..........

I have been covering quite a bit of ground over the past week and so am going to do a couple of posts over the next few days.

The weather seems to be the main topic of conversation here.  There have been quite fierce winds, accompanied with snow up north - the reason for me walking north to south.  Again though, I have had reasonable weather, with quite a bit of sunshine.

Having left the flat landscapes of Somerset behind I have had the views across the beautiful rolling hills of Devon.  As I have walked the lanes of this county I have been protected by the considerably wider, and taller, hedges.  Unless on a crest it is like walking in a valley with the wind whistling across the top.  The higher the path, the drier, but the water continues to ooze out of the ground and run down the road, or lie in pools in the flatter spots in the fields.

Having left Witheridge I headed along the lanes to the village of Winkleigh where I had a delightful night in Clotworthy Hoyse B&B.  During the night I could hear the wind whistling, and rain pelting the window panes, but by the time I set off I took the risk of walking with just my raincoat for protection, not bothering to add the extra protection of rain pants as well.
The church at Witheridge which was open and where I managed to have a sing.
On the noticeboard in the porch, this notice tickled my fancy!  A novel fundraiser indeed!
Just one of the thatched buildings in Witheridge....
.......... and along the way to Winkleigh. 
 This day was a day when the hills were not quite so gentle!  There were a few hills that descended steeply down to streams and then climbed steeply up again.  I was releived that this ford actually had a narrow bridge for pedestrians to cross.  My feet would have got well and truly wet if I had to wade through this!
The church at Broadwood Kelly.
No hedges for wind protection, but the wood gave me a lot of protection from the fierce wind this day.
I really enjoy walking along the lanes.  The walking is generally easy without having to focus too much on where to place the feet and I am thus able to observe the wildlife along the hedges, in the fields, and admire the views as I stroll along, here looking out towards Dartmoor in the distance.
The little town of Okehampton nestles at the bottom of Dartmoor.

Arriving in Okehampton I managed to get some minor repairs done.  I stopped at an outdoor shop where the owner managed to reattach the chest strap buckle to my pack.  It came off several days ago and after trying unsuccessfully at the B&B and later at a cycle shop, I was very appreciative of this mans persistence.  I also arrived in time to catch specsavers open and get the arms of my glasses tightened.  Small things, I know, but these small things add to the comfort of the journey.

Leaving Okehampton the next morning I happened to go past a Methodist Church where a service was about to begin, and knowing I only had a short days walk I stopped.  Here I was treated to some wonderful music.  The pianist / organist is an amazing musician.  He improvised on hymn tunes in a classical way on the piano.  A short hymn was treated like a theme and variations, a la Haydn or Beethoven, complete with modulations from a major to a minor key, ornamentation, and a splendid coda at the end!  A very talented musician indeed.  I was made very welcome and this was a splendid start to a very pleasant walk along the Granite Way to Lydford.
 Walking into the delightful town of Okehampton I passed this row of colourful houses.

The Granite Way turned out to be a multi use cycle path following the disused railway track from Okehampton to Lydford.   It runs along the edge of the Dartmoor National Park and has spectacular views looking over the hills.  It has been purpose built for all - including walkers, cyclists and wheelchairs.  I passed, and chatted to, a lady on a gopher who was taking her dog for a walk.
 Just some of the users of the Granite Way......
 ........ and one view looking up onto the moor.
 St Thomas a Becket church at Sourton.
There are numerous granite seats along the way for a rest, but a bit cold to linger on in the current weather conditions!
Along the way there were odd bits of relics from what I assume were the railway days.  I presume this was a waiting room - there were a number of them along the way.

Because the Granite Way was mostly level (or only slightly ascending / descending) I was able to make good time, arriving in Lydford with time to sit and chat to people in the bar.  I even had time to go out and explore the church and castle next door to the pub.  The locals in the pub were very friendly and extraordinarily helpful.  One man went home, presumably rang around and found a B&B at my next stop, and then rang back the pub to give me the name and number.  It was a really enjoyable stopover here.
The Norman St Petroc's Church at Lydford.  I managed to get a sing in here before leaving in the morning.
Lydford's Norman Castle.






1 comment:

  1. I am realising I have very little idea about the geography of England, and I thought Dartmoor was somewhere further north like near Liverpool. Am getting out the atlas later!

    ReplyDelete